Read the Label: Top Skincare Ingredients to AVOID for Rosacea Prone Skin
Disclaimer:
I am not a dermatologist and am in no way suggesting any of the ingredients
mentioned in today’s post to be used as a treatment for rosacea.
These selections are based on my own research and personal experience.
Last week I posted about the top skincare ingredients to USE if you have rosacea, as well as some sneaky marketing claims to watch out for. In today’s post, I’m going to dive into the flip side of that—ingredients you should AVOID if you have rosacea.
There is a lot of misinformation out there about what ingredients and products will “cure” rosacea. Not to be a Debbie downer, but we need to get one thing straight here: There is no cure for rosacea. I don’t say this to be pessimistic. I say it to hopefully bring about acceptance and understanding of what rosacea really is—a chronic inflammatory skin disease. Most over-the-counter skincare products are aimed at treating superficial skin issues that are not rooted in being a medical condition. Issues such as dryness, oiliness, blotchiness, or dull skin that are the result of normal environmental wear and tear (and NOT because there is a malfunction in the normal skin processes) benefit from most products on the market. Rosacea however, is much more complex and so it’s important to pay attention to the ingredients that go into what we use on our skin.
With that said, it is possible to obtain remission from your rosacea symptoms.
Remission looks like you’ve been cured in that you have clear skin again, with no redness, inflammation, or acne-like bumps. However, this clear skin can be replaced by rosacea easily if the wrong ingredients are used, or if you’re undergoing intense emotional stress, hormonal changes, or a change in climate (which I will discuss in later posts). So without further ado, here’s a not-so-comprehensive list of what ingredients to avoid for rosacea, but certainly contains all the major players that can cause a flare-up.
Top Skincare Ingredients to AVOID for Rosacea Prone Skin
tea tree oil - has been used as a natural remedy for many skin conditions. Lab studies have shown that it does possess anti-microbial properties, meaning it can kill bacteria and fungus. So why is it not a good choice for rosacea? Higher concentrations of tea tree oil can actually make skin irritation worse. Low concentrations may have a positive effect, but there is very little research on this and it’s hard to know what a beneficial concentration level would be. If you still want to try it, my recommendation would be to make sure that tea tree oil is listed as low as possible on the ingredient list to help avoid any potential reactions.
fragrance (of any kind, including “natural” or essential oils) - In a survey conducted by the National Rosacea Society, 30% of participants cited fragrance as a trigger for their rosacea symptoms. Furthermore, the American Academy of Dermatology states that “fragrances cause more allergic contact dermatitis than any other ingredient.” This also includes naturally occurring fragrances. Just because it’s there naturally doesn’t mean it won’t also irritate.
camphor - is the oil extracted from the wood of camphor trees and processed by steam distillation. It can be used topically for pain, irritation, and itching. However, similar to tea tree oil, if you use it in high doses it can actually make those symptoms worse. It’s also dangerous to apply to broken skin, as it can be toxic.
lactic acid - is another one of those beneficial ingredients in disguise. It can stimulate collagen renewal and firm skin. It also helps treat hyperpigmentation. However, rosacea is not the same as hyperpigmentation, which refers mostly to sun spots or age spots. Lactic acid exfoliates the skin by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells. In rosacea, the skin’s natural barrier is already compromised, so exfoliators of any kind only serve to further irritate and worsen symptoms.
menthol, eucalyptus oil, and peppermint - these ingredients typically have a “cooling” effect, but in rosacea that sensation actually manifests as burning and itching. This is because of the natural fragrance found in each.
sodium laurel sulfate (often found in shampoo so be weary of that too!) - this ingredient is a harsh cleaning surfactant. It’s been toted as a big “no-no” for skincare regardless of rosacea, so i’m not going to beat a dead horse here. If you see it, avoid it.
witch hazel - is often used as a toner for sensitive skin, since most are alcohol-free. However, many drugstore witch hazel toners are misleading and actually contain 15-30% ethanol (see my note about alcohols at the end of this list), a common skin irritant. While we’re on the subject, toners in general should be avoided for rosacea as they are all too harsh on compromised skin.
propylene glycol - can dry out skin, which is good for acne, but bad for rosacea.
tretinoin - should only be used by an extremely knowledgeable dermatologist for treatment of rosacea. While it can help with the pustules and bumps of acne rosacea, it’s very hard on hypersensitive skin. That’s because it’s a retinoid, which is strong and potentially irritating in nature, so it could actually make redness and spider veins worse.
benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid - these ingredients are great for acne, but bad for rosacea. They increase the skin’s oxidative stress, which increases inflammation and premature aging (eek!)
glycolic acid - is another exfoliating ingredient. It often makes normal skin tingle, so the effects on already inflamed skin are more like stinging and burning.
hydroquinone - similar to lactic acid, this ingredient is used to treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation. On rosacea skin it easily inflames, burns, and can make redness worse.
any kind of soap - soaps are high in detergent content, which has a harsh stripping effect on the skin. They also often contain harmful chemicals like formaldehyde or sodium laurel sulfate.
any type of physical exfoliator (think scrubs or brushes)
adapalene - similar to tretinoin, Adapalene is a retinoid found in products like Differin Gel, which can help with the pustules of acne rosacea. However, if not used correctly, this ingredient can make the inflammation and redness of rosacea worse.
chemical sunscreens (including “organic” ones) - while physical sunscreens block UV rays, chemical ones sink into your skin and react with them. This results in a chemical process that turns UV rays into harmless byproducts like heat. But not so “harmless” for rosacea as heat is a major trigger. Some chemical sunscreens to avoid are oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, and avobenzone.
Alcohols to avoid in skincare
I’m dedicating a special list of alcohol ingredients here, because there are actually two kinds of alcohols found in skincare—one is good for skin, and the other is bad. Some alcohols are actually beneficial because they help with moisture retention (something rosacea sufferers struggle with). These include: acetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, laurel alcohol and steady alcohol.
Astringent alcohols on the other hand should be avoided at all cost as they have a drying and irritating effect on the skin. These include:
“alcohol” (listed on its own)
Ethyl Alcohol or ethanol
Methanol
Isopropyl Alcohol
SD Alcohol
Benzyl Alcohol
In summary
A good rule of thumb is to always avoid products formulated for oily or acne only skin, since many contain ingredients that are too harsh for rosacea. Ideally, the less ingredients on the label the better and try to make them include as many of the safe ingredients as possible. A gentle cleanser and moisturizer pare with a medicated topical from your dermatologist is best. Over-the-counter “medicines” like azelaic acid or sulphur washes can be helpful too. (If you’re interested in products that I personally use and love you can also shop those HERE)
Still confused? Leave me a comment and let’s chat! As always, thanks for reading and talk to you again soon xoxo - Kristin