How to Apply Makeup to Rosacea-Prone Skin
So you’ve got rosacea. No problem! Just slap some makeup on and no-one will ever know…
Except, it doesn’t work quite that easily.
Rosacea is more than just red skin to be concealed. It’s often paired with burning, itchy, rough textured skin. Oh, and acne like bumps that easily turn cystic if clogged with cosmetics. Oof.
So what are the options? How can you wear makeup to conceal rosacea? Personally, I’m a believer in less is more and learning to love your natural skin as it is, without constantly trying to hide it to fit unrealistic beauty standards. I realize though, that not everyone feels that. Plus, sometimes it’s just fun to put on some makeup to feel creative and pampered.
How to Apply Makeup to Rosacea-Prone Skin
I’m by no means an expert makeup artist. Most of what I know about makeup comes from desperately trying to hide my cystic acne when I was a teen, and later my type 2 rosacea as an adult. But I have learned a few tips and tricks that I’d love to share with you in the hopes that it will make your makeup wearing experience a little more enjoyable!
Many times it’s not necessarily the brand or type of makeup you wear, but HOW you apply it.
Below, I’m going to list out some common concerns when it comes to rosacea and makeup, along with an explanation of how to overcome that particular problem. If I leave out an issue you deal with, drop me a line in the comments so that I can make sure to update this post for everyone’s benefit! I’ll also link any products mentioned to my shop page to make it easier to purchase if interested :)
Problem One: Dry, flaky skin/patches
Dry flaky skin is one thing, but the dryness associated with rosacea is almost indescribable. The flakes just keep on coming to the point where I’ve often wondered “how do I have any skin left!?” I know it’s gross, but it’s the truth. Most of the work of hiding this issue actually starts with skincare. A good hydrating cleanser like CeraVe followed by a once a week gentle exfoliation with a clay mask will do wonders at minimizing the flakes. The rest is all in the makeup application.
How to solve it:
Apply a good primer. I like using The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid as a primer, even though it’s not intended for that. It does a great job of locking in extra moisture to help keep those pesky flakes at bay.
Avoid powder foundation and opt for a liquid one. (I love IT Cosmetics CC+. It’s moisturizing and has great coverage.) To apply, use a damp beauty blender and DAB gently onto skin. Try to avoid rubbing as much as possible as this will only lift flakes up and make them more noticeable. Same goes for concealing work. - The Eco Tools Beauty Blender is my favorite for this!
Opt for a setting spray vs. a powdered one.
Problem Two: Redness on nose that ALWAYS shows through
I don’t know about you, but the redness on my nose ALWAYS shows through. At least, it used to. Now I’ve almost mastered the art of keeping it in place, but at a price. Whenever I do full coverage makeup with the goal of making it stay, I almost always have a flareup, even if my skin typically likes the products that I’m using. So keep that in mind!
How to solve it:
After primer, apply a coat of concealer using the dabbing method mentioned above. My all time favorite concealer is the IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Redness Color Correcting Creme (Revlon Colorstay is a good option too!)
Apply foundation
Apply a second coat of concealer
Dab on some powdered foundation very gently with a brush (to avoid flaking)
Apply a setting spray. I love the Urban Decay one the most.
Problem Three: Cystic acne
There are two main types of cystic acne to conceal: the large swollen hot mess and the dry, flaky kind. Both are huge and menacing. Each have their own solution.
How to solve it:
For the large swollen kind
Use a cold compress or ice cube to help reduce swelling.
AVOID foundation and instead opt for a tinted moisturizer. I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but trust me. The more layers of makeup the larger the cyst will end up looking. The goal here is to match the cyst to your skin tone as much as possible. Heavy full-coverage products will actually create shadows and accentuate a cyst vs hiding it.
If your cyst is especially angry and red, you can use a green primer dabbed on gently using your pinky finger or a concealing brush, followed by a lightweight concealer applied in the same manner. Otherwise, skip to just the concealer. I like the Florence by Mills See You Never Concealer, because it’s not heavy or cakey.
Finish with a setting spray
For the dry, flaky kind
Soak the flaky blemish with a warm (not hot!) washcloth to loosen the dead skin cells.
Use a tweezer (sterilized with alcohol) to remove the flakes. Work around the cyst gently pulling and trimming. Be careful to only remove what’s ready to come off. If you fixate on this step too much, you could irritate, make raw, and make worse your cyst.
Next you want to deeply hydrate the cyst to avoid the flakes returning throughout the day (effectively lifting your makeup off). I like using The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid, but any deep moisturizer will work. Be sure to only apply it to the dry flaky areas vs your whole face, otherwise it could make other areas too oily for your makeup.
Then follow it with steps 2, 3, & 4 from above.
Large Pores & Scarring
Similar to dry, flaky skin, the key to effectively concealing large pores is to make sure your skin is hydrated (are you seeing a theme here?) and this is especially necessary for rosacea-prone skin which naturally struggles to retain moisture. The goal here is to plump up the skin with moisture, fill in the pores with skincare (vs makeup which can lead to breakouts), and then apply makeup. The same goes for those deep, pitted scars left over from previous breakouts.
How to solve it:
Since toner is a big no no for rosacea, use a gentle micellar water (I like Bioderma’s) to prep the skin.
Apply a lightweight moisturizing serum, such as Hyaluronic Acid
Use a primer with a blurring effect and apply using a beauty blender in a tapping motion (never rub!). Dr. Brandt’s Pores No More is a great option, but beware that if worn all day it has the potential to irritate rosacea. If you have scars with hyperpigmentation, the Smashbox Photo Finish Primer in the green tint is a great option.
Apply foundation with the same tapping method using a beauty blender, or buff it in using a circular motion (not a wiping one) using a fluffy foundation brush. I’ve also heard of mixing in the CoverFX Custom Cover Drops to the moisturizer or primer for extra blurring effect, but have not personally tried (but I will soon!)
Finish with a setting powder (skip and use a setting spray if your skin is still too dry) that has added pore concealing properties. I like the IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Pores setting powder.
And a final note… Don’t be afraid to wear blush or red lipstick with your makeup looks! For years, I avoided these products because I thought it accentuated the redness on my face. But if you do a good job concealing and following the tips mentioned above, you can rock those bold colors with confidence.
p.s. three makeup brands PERFECT for rosacea and a video tutorial on how to achieve a full coverage look